Cheela ~ Savoury mung bean pancakes

These are my new addiction.

As part of my budget adventure, I’m trying to use up stuff from my pantry. (Well, more like I was too anxious about finances to go to the grocery store so I was forced to turn to the seldom-used items in my pantry…) Last week I came across a jar of mung dal (split mung beans) that I’d never cooked with, so I looked online to see what kind of recipes I could make.

I found a recipe for something called cheela, savoury Indian mung dal pancakes at the so-delicious-I-want-to-eat-everything-she-makes vegetarian blog Lisa’s Kitchen. I normally shy away from getting out my food processor except on special occasions (because I don’t like to wash it!) but I felt like having a little adventure, so I went for it. Little did I know I’d be washing the food processor three times that night… but it was totally worth it.

So these are ridiculously delicious and I never seem to get tired of them. The texture is somewhere between soft and crisp (softer than a dosa, much thinner than an uttapam) and they are flexible enough to fold in half without cracking. The flavor is remarkable, due mostly, I think, to the whole coriander seeds blended into the batter. They are dry enough that they definitely need some kind of moistening accompaniment. I went with the cashew chutney Lisa recommends on her blog and improvised a tomato-coconut chutney as well (recipe follows). Both were super delicious, although the cashew chutney is incredibly rich (and not particularly budget-y) so now that I eat these all the darn time I’ve just been topping them with the tomato chutney.

Mung dal pancakes with cashew and tomato-coconut chutneys

I keep a container of the batter in the fridge. It makes an easy protein-and-fiber breakfast every morning, and an excellent quick (cheap!) snack to reach for when I have guests who need to be fed pronto (like this afternoon when Farmer B came over to make sauerkraut). When the batter is close to running out, I set out another cup of mung dal to soak, then a few hours later get out my food processor and make another batch. I make them in a cast iron pan with just a tiny bit of oil, so as far as I can tell they’re a fairly guilt-free indulgence, too. (Although the first time I made them, I didn’t have any soy yogurt, so I improvised “yogurt” using cashew butter, almond milk, and vegan cream cheese. As Duck said, it was probably the most expensive yogurt substitute ever made!)

Cheela ~ Savoury mung dal pancakes
This recipe is from the blog Lisa’s Kitchen. I have adapted it very slightly – made it vegan, added the dried chiles at an earlier step to save washing another bowl, used less oil. This means the recipe is that much further away from authentic. But it’s the version I’ve been eating every day, so it’s the one I can highly recommend!

1 cup split mung beans without skins (mine were split but had skins and turned out fine)
1/2 cup soy yogurt (did you know you can freeze soy yogurt? I freeze it in 1/2 cup portions in ziploc bags to use for this recipe)
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon asafoetida
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/3 cup water
4 dried red chillies, or to taste (I used a combo of tobagos and red chiles)
Olive or canola oil for cooking

Rinse the dal thoroughly under cold running water, then place in a bowl and cover with water so that there are several inches of water above the dal. Soak for at least 3 hours or overnight, then drain and discard the soaking water.

Put the soaked dal in a food processor or blender and blend for several minutes, stopping now and then to push the dal down with a spatula. (It may take a while to get to the fine consistency you want to achieve, but don’t give up!)

Add the soy yogurt, coriander and fennel seeds, salt, asafoetida turmeric, and dried chiles and blend for another minute. Add enough water to make the batter thickish, like a lightly whipped cream.

Preheat a 10-inch frying pan or cast-iron pan over medium-low heat for 2-3 minutes. Sprinkle a few drops of water on the pan to test the temperature — if it is just right, the drops will dance and sputter before vanishing. If the drops vanish right away, turn down the temperature slightly, or if the drops just sit on the surface before boiling, turn up the temperature slightly. Brush the surface with a light film of olive or canola oil.

Scoop slightly more than ¼ cup of the batter and place on the middle of the pan.Place the bottom of a ladle or large spoon in the centre of the batter and spread it outwards in a continuous spiral, pressing lightly, until you have a thin round or oval pancake. Cook for 1 minute.

Cover the pan and cook for 3-4 minutes until the bottom is golden to reddish-brown. Loosen the edges with a spatula and turn the pancake over. Cook, uncovered, for another minute or so, then flip over once again, fold the pancake in half and slip it out of the pan on to a warming plate or into an oven preheated to 150° while you repeat the process. Repeat the water sprinkling to test the temperature and brush the pan with more oil before making each pancake. Makes 9 or 10 pancakes.

Serve hot, or store wrapped in aluminum foil and reheated in a 350° oven.
Serve with cashew chutney and tomato-coconut chutney, or some other moistening accompaniment/sauce.

Quick and easy tomato-coconut chutney

1 can diced tomatoes (those fire-roasted ones would be amazing here)
1/2 cup dried coconut
a sprinkle of cayenne
1 large chile (or more, to taste)
a sprinkle of asofetida
1 T. grated ginger
2 tsp. canola oil
2-3 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp mustard seeds

Into a food processor: the can of tomatoes, dried coconut, cayenne, chile (fresh or dried), asafetida, ginger. Don’t process yet.

Heat the canola oil in a pan over high heat. Add the cumin and mustard seeds (and cover with a spatter screen if you’ve got one). When the spices stop sputtering, pour them into your food processor as well. Process until you reach your desired texture (chunky or smooth).

Twas the night after Christmas…

I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday! I had a lovely Christmas filled with family and friends and, of course, cookies. Now I’m sitting here eating rum balls for breakfast and cooing over my stash of new goodies like a dragon with her hoard of jewels.

I must have been a very good girl this year because Santa brought me pretty much everything my little cook’s heart desired. I now have four fabulous new cookbooks to play with, two of which I’ve never even cooked from yet (the other two I borrowed from the library and realized I would use enough to merit owning them).

I am thrilled to finally get my hands on a copy of Ricki Heller’s book Sweet Freedom: Desserts You’ll Love Without Wheat, Eggs, Dairy, or Refined Sugar. I adore Ricki’s blog (and I adore Ricki!) and so I already know her recipes are smart, well-tested, and delicious. It was such a pleasure yesterday to flip through the book and ogle all the tasty treats. I was showing it to my mom (the generous gifter of Sweet Freedom) and noticing that when I first looked at the pictures my mind automatically skipped over the photos of pancakes, cheesecake brownies, apple cake, and so on, because I’m so used to looking at either gluten-free or vegan dessert books, so I know that I simply won’t be able to make many of the recipes. But I can make so many of the recipes in Sweet Freedom! (There are many recipes with spelt and barley flour and I’m not sure yet what quantity of those I can tolerate.) I’m particularly excited to try the Amazing Bean Brownies (the recipe that brought me to Ricki’s blog intially, years ago), Decadent Chocolate Pate, Berries and Cream Tart, and Chocolate Caramels.

More vegan, gluten-free inspiration came in the form of Elizabeth Andoh’s new book, Kansha: Celebrating Japan’s Vegan and Vegetarian Traditions. I am absolutely in love with her previous book, the gorgeous tome Washoku, which I’ve written about several times. At one point I had a fantasy about cooking my way through it, start to finish, as a kind of course on Japanese home cooking. But so many of the recipes contain fish, meat, or chicken. So when I heard she had written a new book entirely focused on vegan and vegetarian cuisine I was over the moon! Kansha is every bit as beautiful as Washoku, with huge, perfectly composed photography, incredible attention to design and layout, and lovingly detailed recipes for dishes from simple to elaborate. I can’t wait to get started with the first recipe, a 2-page treatise entitled Cooked White Rice.

My other two new cookbooks are Vegan Express by Nava Atlas, a cookbook I’ve come to rely on for its healthy, delicious, fast recipes, and Terry Hope Romero’s Viva Vegan, a Latin cookbook that inspires a similar fantasy of cooking my way through it and mastering the art of fine vegan Latin cuisine. These books, along with my new electric kettle and digital food scale, make me feel like 2011 is going to be a very, very good year for food.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, my dears! I look forward too cooking with all of you for another year of delicious amazing community supported agriculture, vegan, and gluten-free delights!

Silent retreat

Remember that time I totally abandoned you for three weeks without a word? Yeah? That was not very awesome.

Sorry about that, friends. I had my little personal retreat, and then it was Chanukah, and then I went on my actual silent retreat. But now I’m back and super excited to tell you about vegan GF Thanksgiving, and vegan GF Chanukah, and vegan GF Christmas cookies… Too late to actually be helpful this year but hey, there’s always next year!

The Market Report ~ Week of May 12th

Stenciled "Farmer's Market" sign

My CSA box is delivered every other Wednesday. On the off weeks, I can now mosey down to the brand new Haight Street farmer’s market in my neighborhood, which also takes place on Wednesdays!

This week I still had tons and tons of produce left from my box and a trip to the store, so there was nothing I really needed. I couldn’t help wandering down there just to check it out, of course. It’s a medium-sized market. Definitely more stands than the little Kaiser market which used to be one of my closest farmer’s markets, with maybe five stands of mixed produce and a couple more with something specific, like strawberries or peaches. I only had a few dollars with me, because I wasn’t really expecting to buy anything, but then I was thrilled to see the Kashiwase Farms stand, with crate upon crate of white peaches! I like strawberries but I also find them inherently unsatisfying (I know, I’m strange), and so it’s been me and the citrus fruits for many months now.

The man at the Kashiwase stand told me these peaches were nothing compared to what he’ll have in the weeks to come, but the samples tasted like heaven to me! I got a lesson on picking peaches without squeezing and bruising them half to death (push gently right around the stem opening, just like choosing a melon, and then pick a mix of fruit that are soft and firm in that area) and picked out four beautiful, sweet, juicy peaches to take home with me and gloat over.

Crates of peaches at the farmer's market

The rest of the stands are either specialty products, like raw milk and butter, nuts, or honey, or prepared foods. The market has everything from baked goods to Afghani and Indian prepared meals. Cruising around the market it seemed like those stands were getting by far the most attention. It always seems a little weird to me when the proportion of prepared food stands is greater than the produce stands, but from their popularity they are clearly a very welcome addition to the markets. (Or maybe they were so crowded because they all give away delicious samples!)

Crowds gathered around the prepared food stands

I thought I might get away with just my peaches, but then I went all the way to the back of the market to check out the stand that sold me a delicious bunch of gai lan last time I was there. This time they had huge bunches of fresh amaranth, which I’ve been wanting to try for ages. The bunch I bought was so big it filled almost my entire canvas shopping bag!

Bunches of fresh amaranth

The amaranth, while inexpensive and a great deal, to boot, used up the rest of the cash I had on me. So I just strolled around for a while and checked out what else looked good and abundant. There were some beautiful multicolored chards, looking about as shiny and bright as any chard I’ve ever seen, and of course a multitude of fresh spring onions and garlics with their tops still attached. The other abundant item was my produce nemesis, the fava bean. (One of the best things about FFTY, my CSA, is that it lets me say which veggies I absolutely don’t want in my box. I am pretty much a lover of all produce, but I can’t eat bell peppers and I won’t eat favas, so having that option really reduces the amount of stuff from my box I end up giving away or throwing away.)

Bunches of chard with red, pink, and yellow stalks
Spring onions (red and white) and garlic, with their green tops
A giant crate of fava beans

Socca it to me!

I know, I know, terrible pun. I really couldn’t resist. Usually I exhibit much more restraint.

So the other day I was starving and having one of those “Waah, there’s nothing to eat!” days. What I did have, however, was a copy of The Allergen-Free Baker’s Handbook by Cybele Pascal, which is subtitled “How to bake without gluten, wheat, dairy, eggs, soy, peanuts, tree nuts, and sesame.” I reserved this book from the library after I bought two gluten-free baking books and found their recipes nearly impossible to convert to vegan. Flipping through the book I saw good pantry lists and and substitution advice as well as yummy-sounding recipes, from muffins and scones to brownies and cupcakes to several different kinds of yeast bread.

Tucked in amongst the recipes for savory baked goods (this is a smaller section than I would have liked, since I tend to prefer the savory side) I found a recipe for “Socca de Nice,” or Mediterranean chickpea-flour crepes. Chickpea flour, while an esoteric flour for most cooks to have in their pantries, is a pretty standard staple for us gluten-free bakers. The recipe was simple and fast, used ingredients I had on hand, and on top of all that I’ve been curious about socca for years but had never tried one.

I whisked together the very brief list of ingredients, heated my cast-iron skillet in the oven, and swirled out a crepe to bake. These are not crepes as I tend to imagine them – something very thin and flexible that you can fold around something else. These are firm and a bit thick, very toothsome. The recipe recommends cutting them into wedges, and that’s exactly the sort of thing socca seems to want to become – nice sturdy wedges drizzled with olive oil, salt, and pepper, eaten hot immediately out of the oven. They have a very mild “beany” flavor (I used garfava flour, which contains both chickpeas and fava beans, so that might be why) that works wonderfully with their savory, hearty taste and mouthfeel. These would make a great easy base for a pizza-style dish (especially good for “top your own pizza” nights where everyone else is using a pre-baked wheat pizza crust – socca batter takes much less work than pizza dough but would make a satisfying flatbread-type base).

I enjoyed my socca plain and with two fast, easy toppings from my beloved Moosewood Cooks at Home: olive tapenade and creamy, garlicky butter beans. They were delicious and incredibly filling – my mouth was begging me to keep eating long after my stomach was pleading for me to stop!

Socca de Nice
from The Allergen-Free Baker’s Handbook by Cybele Pascal

1 1/2 cups cold water
3 tablespoons olive oil*
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups chickpea flour
1/2 teaspoon cumin
High-heat cooking oil like super canola oil, super safflower, avocado (I used peanut oil since I don’t have a nut allergy)

Preheat oven to 550 degrees.

In a large bowl, whisk together water, olive oil, and salt.

Add chickpea flour, a little at a time, whisking in completely. Stir in cumin. Whisk for about a minute. You want this batter smooth! Add a little more water if it seems too thick – you want it thin like crepe batter.

Preheat an 10-inch cast iron skillet in the oven, 4-5 minutes. Remove (with an oven mitt or potholder, it will be HOT!). Put a little high-heat oil in the pan and swirl it around to coat. Then, working quickly, add a heaping 1/2 cup of the batter to the pan, swirling it around to fill the pan in an even layer.

Put pan in oven and cook 5-7 minutes, till browned a bit around the edges. Remove from oven. Flip. It should be golden brown on the bottom. Remove to plate, add a little more oil to the pan, another 1/2 cup batter and cook, and so on.

This recipe makes 4 socca, ie 4 servings. Eat hot. You can cut it into wedges and dip it into olive oil, or drizzle olive oil on top, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

* to add herbal flavor, you my heat 1/2 teaspoon of dried herbs like rosemary or thyme in the olive oil for 2 minutes over medium heat. Let the olive oil cool before making recipe.

You may also make these on the stove top. Pascal says she likes the texture slightly better in the oven, but the stove top is much quicker. To do so, heat your cast iron skillet over medium high heat. Add a little olive oil. Once hot, add batter. Cook about 1 minute, flip, cook 1 minute more. Remove from pan.

Gigondes (creamy, garlicky beans)
from Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home

1 1/2 cups drained canned gigondes, butter beans, or giant lima beans (14-oz can)
1 T. olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 T. minced fresh parsley or basil (I used 1 t. dried parsley)
1/2 C. Creamy Garlic Dressing (recipe follows)

Gently rinse beans and drain. Place drained beans in a bowl, sprinkle with olive oil, lemon juice, herbs, and 1/2 cup dressing. Mix gently with a wooden spoon. Store refrigerated up to 3 days, serve at room temperature.

Creamy Garlic Dressing
(this dressing is also amazing over warm polenta!)

1 1/2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1/4 C. plus 2 T. olive oil
2 T. red wine vinegar
1/2 T. chopped fresh basil (or 1/2 t. dried)
1/2 t. salt
1/4 t. fresh ground black pepper
1/4 C. soy milk

Put the garlic, oil, vinegar, basil, salt, and pepper into a blender or food processor and whir for a couple of seconds. With the blender still running, slowly add the soy milk, whirling until the dressing is thick and smooth. Covered and refrigerated, this dressing will keep for at least a week.
Makes 3/4 cup.

Olive Tapenade
from Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home

2 1/2 cups drained pitted black olives (2 6-oz cans)
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
2 T. pine nuts
1-2 T. extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor or blender, whirl the olives with the garlic, pine nuts, and 1 T. of the olive oil until mixture is somewhat smooth. (It’s okay if some of the pine nuts remain whole.) If mixture is too stiff, add remaining olive oil.

Makes 2 cups. Covered and refrigerated, this spread should keep for about a week. It is best served at room temperature.

Food for Thought ~ Hazon Food Conference

Well. the Hazon Food Conference is almost over. Tomorrow is the final day, and then at around 1 we’ll head back up or down the coast, or across the country, hopefully bringing some of what we’ve learned back to wherever we call home.

A few highlights from the last few days:

Learning from the owners of Lotus Foods about SRI, the “system of rice intensification,” an entirely different way of growing rice that is better for the rice farmers and the planet. Lotus Foods makes the black and red rices I use in the “I am DIY”/Cafe Gratitude-style rice bowl you all know and love, so it was amazing to learn more about how this rice is grown. I will be writing more on this in the future, I promise!

Catalyzing inspiration from a participant at one of the many Food Justice sessions: “How do we integrate the food movement with the hunger movement? How do we fight for a sustainable food system that also ensures no one goes hungry? People at this conference are not necessarily thinking about hunger; they’re here to think about food, which implies having food.” Time for foodies and food security (aka anti-hunger) activists to unite, and I want to be part of it!

Get some friends together to support each other and pick a week to try the Food Stamp Challenge Diet (eating for a week on $21, or $1/meal). Wouldn’t that make an interesting blog event?

The word sustainability is thrown around like crazy these days. I even found myself using it much more than usual. “What brings you here?,” people would ask me. “I’m very interested in sustainable food systems,” I would reply. It sounded great and felt like something I definitely was interested in, but I realized I had no idea what I was actually saying when I said it. Michael Domick, the dynamo president of Roots of Change and former chairman of Slow Food USA, listed these components when I asked him (I am paraphrasing here, so these are my words, not his). According to Roots of Change, a sustainable food system aims to:
Eliminate toxicity from the system (defined as the type of toxins the earth can’t process and deal with naturally)
Not overtap aquifers
Treat farm workers with respect and provide opportunities for them in terms of career advancement
Stop creating unhealthy foods
Bring in a diversity of scale, emphasizing regional, rather than national/central, food systems
Eliminate CAFOs and make animal processing local rather than centralized (with an eye to more humane animal raising and processing)

One of the tracks/themes of the conference was about fasting, and I realized that, at least in the reform/renewal Judaism I grew up with, we’ve kept all the feast days from the ancient Jewish calendar but eliminated all but one of the fast days. Very thought-provoking.

For more voices from the Hazon Food Conference, check out:

The Jew and the Carrot
The Boulder Jewish News
Pretty Girls Use Knives
The food conference Twitter feed

Who Will Eat the Goat? ~ Hazon Food Conference, Day 3


Photo of Adamah goats is from the Hevria site:

Nigel Savage, founder of Hazon, asked us two questions during his keynote speech last night at the Hazon Food Conference. It felt like the beginning of one of those Jewish parables, the ones where the wise rabbi asks or tells us something that means more than it seems on the surface, where you ponder on the teaching and the world opens up in a new way.

“Stand up if you eat meat, but you wouldn’t if you had to kill it yourself,” Nigel called out. A number of people in the packed hall rose from their seats. I applauded them for their self-awareness and honesty, while of course maintaining a certain degree of vegetarian smugness.

Then he asked us another question. “Stand up if you are vegetarian, but would eat meat if you killed it yourself.” This time fewer people stood up, but it was still a significant number.

Then Nigel told us the story of the goat.

Two years ago, while putting together the second annual Hazon Food Conference, the planners decided that one of the activities offered would be the opportunity to see a goat killed in a kosher manner. A shochet, or ritual slaughterer, and a rabbi explained the whole process as they performed it. The death by slitting of the throat was almost instantaneous, as kosher law requires. Then there were several more hours of cutting off the goat’s head, hanging its body to drain the blood, opening it up to inspect its organs.

That night the same goat was served for dinner, on a separate table from the rest of the meal, which was vegetarian, and everyone was invited to partake. Nigel asked those same two questions afterwards, but this time he asked who among the diners who normally ate meat had abstained. More than 40 people out of a few hundred stood up. Then he asked if any people who were normally vegetarians had eaten the goat. Around 20 people had, for their own numerous and varied reasons, made this choice.

When word got out before the conference that the ritual slaughter of a goat was to be part of the programming, this provoked some intense reactions. A Jewish vegetarian organization disavowed Hazon and called on others to do the same. For a more detailed look at the sentiments behind the reactions, check out this post and its comments section to read a dialogue which took place this year regarding Hazon’s intention to ritually slaughter chickens and serve them for Shabbat dinner.

I’m a vegetarian, so this doesn’t have much to do with me, right? I can pick a side based on my own principles, but those goats and chickens aren’t being killed and served up in my name.

Except for one thing.

That goat was my goat.

No, I don’t mean he was my own pet goat. I mean that goat was my responsibility. I brought him into this world. His fate was directly linked to me.

That year the Hazon conference was held at the Isabella Freeman Jewish Retreat Center, and the goat in question was from their farm, Adamah, part of Adamah’s “boy’s town.” “Boy’s town” is the separate pasture for all the male goats who are born to the herd of dairy goats Adamah raises to produce milk and cheese. In order to make milk, goats need to be lactating, and to lactate they must be pregnant and then give birth. According to the wonderful Abbe Turner of the Lucky Penny Farm, who answered my questions (during today’s panel of Jewish Female Farmers) with deep compassion and groundedness, around 56% of the kids born in her herd are male. None of these little guys will be producing milk any time soon. So what happens to them?

I imagine this answer is different for different goats. And then there also the even more numerous males born to dairy cows, and all the males born to laying hens. Some end up as featured delicacies in local gourmet retaurants, like Abbe Turner’s. Others are killed quickly and cleanly by a shochet and eaten by those who raised them, like the goats at Adamah. Most others will likely go to central processing plants to become stew meat or pet food or veal calves or are even ground into livestock feed, like male laying chickens.

When I eat eggs and dairy, even from the most humane, sustainable, small-farmer-owned, organic, local farms, I am not only drinking this milk and noshing on this cheese. I am calling forth this male goat, this living animal who is brought into a world that has very few options for him. Farmers could keep these male animals and raise them – and Abbe Turner does send some off to live lengthy lives as 4H projects or grass shearers. But to keep all of these animals would be to make pets of them, and the strain this doubling of the herd would put on the resources of land and water and farmer would be enormous beyond justification.

In saying that, I’m not saying that the strain on resources of keeping these “extraneous” male animals alive is not justified by the saving of their lives; I’m saying that it’s not justified by the resources (i.e., money) that I’m willing to contribute to get myself a delicious chevre or some tasty yogurt. I’m not paying so much for my cheese that there’s money in there to fund a goat sanctuary as well. So, the goat goes off to the knife. Someone kills him, someone cooks him, someone eats him. It’s not me, though.

No, I’m a vegetarian.

This post is cross-posted to Hazon’s food blog, The Jew and the Carrot. It is not intended to endorse any particular diet or agenda, e.g. to say that being vegan (abstaining from all animal products) is the only way to live, or that vegetarians are hypocrites. It merely hopes to be an exploration of one of the least considered aspects of our food chain.